EDC Knives: Frequently Asked Questions
The factors play a big part is which EDC knife is best for you. They include blade shape, handle, steel type, and edge. Plus you need to figure out what type of knife and tool user you are, and how you intend to use it. Below are some general questions to pick the best EDC knife for your needs.
Q. Is it legal to carry a pocket knife?
A. The answer is “it depends.” One knife may be legal in one state and illegal in another. Pay attention to the blade length, how it opens, and how you want to carry it.
For U.S. residents refer to this website, it’s simple to comprehend. Here’s a website for the Canadian knife laws. Switchblades, or butterfly knifes. Any knife that auto opens by gravity or centrifugal force isn’t allowed. The U.K. has another set of standards found here.
Q. Which blade shape is best for general use?
A. This is where is can get confusing as there’s almost an infinite number of blade shapes. For example, the sheepsfoot and Wharncliffe. For EDC gear, the most common is the drop point blade shape. This is because the drop point can cut, slice, chop, and even puncture with ease.
Q. Fixed or folding knife?
A. This is a personal choice that depend on how you want to both carry and use it. Both are great for everyday carry, yet a folding model tends to be smaller and easy to pocket. If you want a convenient sharp edge for both indoor and outdoors, a fold knife is your best bet.
Whereas a fixed blade is better for pure outdoor activities. If you plan to hack, pry, split objects with full force, then a fixed blade you can’t beat a sturdy fixed blade.
Q. Which steel type needs the least maintenance?
A. Every steel type is susceptible to damage and the two main culprits are edge abuse and rust. You need to determine the climate and how you plan to use the knife to make this choice.
Stainless steel blades with high levels of chromium are great at resisting rust. But are bad at fire starting and the edge wears down faster.
The other option you may see are steels full of carbon. This type stays sharper longer. But lack rust resistance without constant maintenance. Corrosion is a blade’s worst enemy as it will cause the edge to fail.
For most everyday carriers, you need to find a balanced steel. Something that’s corrosion resistant, holds an edge and sharpens easy. This middle ground will ensure lower maintenance overtime.
This is a basic list of EDC steel types:
- S45VN – the best corrosion resistance, good toughness, great edge retention, hard to re-sharpen.
- S30V – has the best general balance of features.
- Powdered S30V – enhanced balance of toughness, anti-corrosion, and edge retention over S30V.
- 12C27 -good edge retention, toughness, hardness, wear resistance and corrosion resistance
- 8Cr13MoV – good corrosion resistance, better hardness, poor edge retention
Q. Which knife handle material is best?
A. For everyday carry, you want a knife that is easy to slip in and out of your pocket. It also needs to be comfortable in your hand, regardless if it’s wet or dry. For a knife to maintain grip without using hand labor in wet and dry climates, it needs to have some kind of texture. Below are brief explanation of typical EDC handle material and their pro’s and con’s.
Aluminum
A low density mid-range metal, anodized for color, hardness and corrosion protection. Delivers a hefty feel without actually being a heavy weight. The highest grade of aluminum is the T6-6061 alloy. This is aircraft grade, so it has a tremendous tensile strength.
If texturized, aluminum handle can provide decent grip for extended use. On the downside, this material gets uncomfortably cold in winter. Plus it scratches easier than other metals.
Pros: Strong, lightweight, durable, rust resistant.
Cons: Cold to hold in winter, slippery if smooth, can scratch.
Titanium
A high-end lightweight metal alloy, with the best rust resistance of any metal. Although it’s heavier than aluminum, it’s still considered lightweight and much stronger. In turn, it’s also more expensive to create. Plus it’s not as tough as stainless steel. Another bonus is it’s actually a warm metal, so it’s not as effected in winter as aluminum. It too can get anodized and texturized but is still prone to scratching.
Pros: Strong, lightweight, rust resistance
Cons: Expensive to make, scratch prone.
Stainless Steel
Another metal that’s used for low-mid range EDC handles. The advantages of this material are its high durability and rust resistance. For disadvantages, it isn’t very lightweight and a bit slippery. To combat hand fatigue, manufacturers have to incorporate etching or ridges for friction.
Pros: Durable and corrosion resistant.
Cons: Heavier, slippery surface.
Carbon Fiber
The term carbon fiber is a generic term for a material made of thin strands of carbon tightly woven and set in resin. It’s a high-end material for a knife and rare to see. Often it’s marketed under the name “carbon fiber reinforced polymer.” It’s a super lightweight material and expensive to create. While has a decent strength, it’s not indestructible. Expect damage when subjected to sharp impacts.
Pros: Lightweight, eye-catching
Cons: Expensive, brittle, prone to impact damage
Micarta®
This is a popular brand example of a phenolic (resin) mixed with cloths. It’s basically like fiberglass, another similar version of this is glass-filled nylon. The end product is lightweight, strong, and looks like a dressed up G-10 handle. Unfortunately, Micarta and glass-filled nylon comes out of the mold without surface texture. Thus, it’s very slippery and requires extra labor to carve texture into the handle. Which in turn, makes the overall knife more expensive. It also is scratch resistant, within reason. Drops on hardy surfaces can damage it though.
Pros: Light, comfortable and durable.
Cons: Expensive, prone to impact damage.
G10
G-10 is a mid to high range knife handle material. The G is a grade of garolite, this means it’s a laminate composite made of fiberglass. This type has similar properties to carbon fiber yet made for a fraction of the cost. It’s a durable, lightweight, non-porous, ultra lightweight, choice. In fact, G10 is the toughest of all the fiberglass resin laminates. Although more brittle than Micarta.
Added texture helps to make for a stiff and comfortable grip. You can get it in a variety of colors for unique cosmetic look. Tactical folding and fixed knives enjoy the qualities of G-10. But like the other composites it can damage on impacts. It’s cheaper to make over carbon fiber but still more than the metals, so expect knives to cost more with G10.
Pros: Durable, water resistant, lightweight
Cons: Brittle
Q. Are Liner Locks Safe In A Folding Knife?
Yes, many knife brands trust and us this type of locking mechanism. In fact, a liner lock is one of the best systems when wearing gloves. To explain, below are some systems found in different knives.
Back Lock
This is a traditional and simple mechanism found in open-back handles. It consists of the blade (with cutout on the tang), a latch-bar and a spring. During opening, you hand pull the blade out. As it swings out, the cutout slides and locks into the latch bar. To close, you push down the exposed part of the bar on the top of the handle-spine. This activates the spring to push up on the latch bar, releasing the cutout and swing the blade closed.
An issue with this type, is the spring-release location. It can be accidentally released during strenuous use and lead to hospital visits.
Pro’s: strong, simple and ambidextrous.
Con’s: accidental release, jamming problems.
Liner Lock
This is the most common form for modern folding knives. Due to ease of operation, assembly, and cost. The mechanism works like a kickstand for a bicycle. Below is a brief explanation:
When closed, the blade pushes the liner to the side. To open, it makes room for the liner pushing towards the inside and locking in place against the end of the blade. Then to release and close the blade, the liner has a special detent ball. This ball allows you with one hand to push the blade and move the liner to the side.
Pros: simple, inexpensive to build, fast opening.
Cons: poor finger safety, not heavy-duty.
Frame Lock
Think of this system as a liner-lock on steroids, where the liner is actually the side of the handle frame. The frame moves inward on opening to keep the blade in place. Then moves back out when closing. How strong it is depends on the individual build quality and spring tension of the frame liner.
Pro’s: Easy to engage, pretty strong, simple construction, fewer parts to maintain.
Con’s: action dependent on strong pivot tension, not ambidextrous as others.
Compression Lock
Developed and patented by Spyderco, this type is like an improved, inverted liner lock. Unlike others, it’s located on the spine side of the knife. Plus it has a physical piece of the liner that wedges and compresses between the tang of the blade and stop pin.
Since its in compression, any forces up against the blade won’t push the liner back out to release the blade. To open you simply pull the liner to the side. Then close the same way.
Pros: stronger than others, safe disengagement, single hand use.
Cons: susceptible to ball detent alignment issues, not ambidextrous.
Axis System
Created and patented by the Benchmade Knife Company is the Axis system. It’s a true ambidextrous system because the latch bar spans from side-to-side of the handle. This bar travels front to back along the spine inside a slot. On each side of the bar is an “omega” Ω spring to provide equal tension. There is a notch in the tang that fits perfect into the bar.
So, you are using the springs to force the solid bar over the top of the blade tang, locking it in place. Pull the bar backward away from the notched tang to close it. It’s simple and safe as it keeps your fingers out of the closure pathway.
Pro’s: ambidextrous, safer than others, extremely strong.
Con’s: omega springs are weaker, dirt buildup issues, prone to blade play.
Finishing up EDC Knives:
Now you should know what’s important to select the right EDC knives for your requirements. Pay attention to the environment you spend your daily life in. A certain knife will work better in a pure outdoor area over a mixed in/out situation. It’s vital to keep this in mind, as both we and our adventures are unique to us. I recommend choosing a balance between cost to performance when selecting an EDC or pocket knife. Doing so will ensure you choose the ideal knife for long-term enjoyment.
Thanks again for letting us at Outdoors Informed aid in your research and buying process. We do it, so you can spend less time indoors and more “cutting” it up outside.
